SUMMER2016
MOUNTAINLIFEBLUEMOUNTAINS
89
The Broadback is an ancient route traveled by the Cree of Eeyou Istchee. The journey from James
Bay up the river to the inland communities would have been an amazing feat in its time and it
is impossible not to appreciate the strength and resilience of those Cree voyagers who traveled
without the luxuries of dehydrated food, headlights, plastic boats, and bug shirts. August is usually
the optimum time to run the river; the immense volume of water should be running at a moderate
low level— except this year it’s not. And by mid-August, the bugs should be starting to ease off—
but this year they’re not. Here we go...
The five members of our team—Rich Fletcher, Cam Fletcher, Dave Higginson, Ian Carr andmyself—
studied the laminatedmaps on the drive up andmade our own images in our minds of what all
these different sections of river would look like. We made note of waterfalls withmarked portages,
and lots of higher-level rapids with names like TheWashing Machine, The Rinse Cycle, The Interview,
andAgitator.
As we begin to encounter the first rapids, the sheer size of the river becomes apparent. A class II
ledge flips one of the canoes and we realize that all the ratings on our maps need a "plus-one."
We’re thankful for the whitewater kayak which is nimble and able to sneak up to the rapids for
scouting. This river is not traveled often and there are no easy take-outs, portages, or viewpoints.
We take our time and always remember where we are. More than once I look at a rapid and say, “I
could run this rapid, but if I miss my line by a little bit, I could get severely injured and compromise
the safety of the rest of the group.” Over the course of the trip, the River Gods grab hold of the
boats and flip them all a few times. Fortunately, in all cases, we’re able to retrieve everything, and
the skirts keep all the gear in the boats. Most importantly, the accordion and guitar make it all the
way without getting wet or bruised.
What I love about trips of this length is that with each new day, your body gets stronger, your mind
gets clearer, and the chores of setting up camp become automatic. You forget about the clock and
revert to the natural dawn and setting of the day. It’s amazing to live out there with so little, but
with everything you truly need—fire, water, food, and shelter.
Our days are spent fighting headwinds, running rapids, and picking blueberries. Every night presents
a new home to eat a fantastic meal, chill down the bug bites andmuscles in the cool river, play
some Dutch blitz, bake some bread, peruse the next day’s maps, do a little fishing, sit by the fire
andmaybe enjoy a little story time with Tom Robbins. Robbins had his own river adventures and
suggests in his short story “The Day The Earth Spit Warthogs”: “Rivers are the true highways of life.
They transport the ancient tears of disappeared races, they propel the foams that will impregnate
the millennium. In flood or in sullen repose, the rivers’ power cannot be overestimated... River Gods,
some muddy, others transparent, ride those highways, singing the world’s inexhaustible song.”
Canadian Parks &Wilderness Society (CPAWS) Quebec Chapter is working with the Grand Council of
the Crees (Eeyou Istchee) to create a protected corridor around the Broadback. See
to
learn how you can help.
Aswebegin toencounter the first rapids, thesheer sizeof the river
becomesapparent.Aclass II ledge flipsoneof thecanoesandwe
realize that all the ratingsonourmapsneeda"plus-one."
CLOCKWISE FROMTOP
Dave scoutingBurnt Hip Falls; Sailingon Lake Evans; Jay running"Quickie"; Cam andRich lookingback up at a
34-metrewaterfall. JAY STILES
